The year is drawing to a close. Nothing has changed—or worse, the situation has deteriorated. The capital, which is gradually shrinking to Delmas and Pétion-Ville, nevertheless continues to cling to its festive traditions, like a final refusal to give in to the surrounding gloom.

While December 25 is considered the main day of Christmas celebration, in Haiti it is Christmas Eve that truly matters. On December 24, residents clean streets and alleyways in preparation for the festivities. Usually dark due to the lack of electricity and deserted because of insecurity, they regain—if only for one night—a vitality that had nearly been forgotten. Children wander through the streets while adults head to church, galas, or dance parties.